The Green Rice FIelds

Majalah Foto

Buat anda yang ingin mendalami fotografi dan tertarik untuk memiliki majalah
fotografi ,sekarang telah banyak situs-situs yang menyediakan nya dalam bentuk ebook gratis tanpa perlu harus mengeluarkan uang selain biaya akses internet. Beberapa situs dalam negeri juga menyediakannya dan senantiasa mempublish majalah foto tersebut baik secara bulanan ,dua bulanan maupun tiga bulanan pada situs-situs mereka. Bahasanya yang notabene adalah bahasa indonesia memudahkan kita para pelaku fotografi yang memiliki kemampuan bahasa inggris yang pas-pasan dapat memahami fotografi dengan lebih baik.

Diantara situs tersebut adalah fotografer.net dengan majalah exposurenya dan thelight yang diterbitkan oleh thelightmagz.com . Cukup dengan register nya yang free anda sudah dapat mendownloadnya.Bagi anda yang memiliki waktu dan akses internet yang lumayan tentu akan mudah sekali untuk mendapatkannya, Apalagi kalo ditotal semua edisinya telah mencapai 2,5GB.





Bagi anda yang memiliki akses internet yang pas-pasan apalagi dengan kesibukan anda yang seabrek tentu tidak memungkin bagi anda untuk dapat langsung membacanya. Untuk itu kami menawarkan bantuan pada anda. Saat ini kami sudah mengkoleksi majalah - majalah tsb dalam bentuk ebook (pdf) dalam bentuk sebuah DVD, Dimana didalamnya terdapat :

** Majalah Exposure 22 edisi dari edisi 1 s/d 22 dalam format Large file
** Majalah The Light 28 edisi dari edisi 1 s/d 28 dalam format standard

Dengan total file semuanya ada 2,5 GB .

Karena kami mendapatkannya secara free ,maka kami tidak akan menjualnya pada anda cukup anda membantu bandwidth dan waktu yang telah kami investasikan dengan nilai sebesar Rp.60,000. Buat anda yang berminat silahkan hubungi kami di rinalvi@gmail.com

Demikian saja semoga dapat membantu anda dalam meningkatkan keterampilan dalam fotografi

Salam Jepret

Job List wajib untuk Foto Wedding

LIST PHOTO WAJIB UNTUK DOKUMENTASI WEDDING

SEBELUM PENGANTIN HADIR AKAD/PEMBERKATAN/RESEPSI

1.Ruangan

Pintu Masuk, Nama Gedung/Mesjid/Gereja ,Suasana Ruangan, Ruangan Keseluruhan, Suasana Tamu, Suasana Saudara2

2.Dekorasi

Pelaminan Kosong,Bunga-Bunga,Pernak-Pernik Hiasan Ruangan,Meja Penerima Tamu,Souvenir

Untuk Akad : Meja Ijab Kabul

Untuk Gereja : Lilin, Alkitab, Altar,Salib

Karangan Bunga Ucapan Selamat

3.Makanan

Susunan Makanan,Gelas berisi Minuman warna warni,Stand-Stand Makanan

PENTING : INISIAL ES

Note : Perhatikan WB & Lighting

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MAKE UP PENGANTIN

1.Perempuan

Sebelum Di make Up,Make Up Mata, bibir dsb (per-bagian),Ekspresi keluarga yang ada disekitar,Baju Pengantin,Alat-Alat Make Up,Penata Rias,Pengantin Selesai di make up + POSE

2.Pria

Sebelum Di make Up,Make Up Mata, bibir dsb (per-bagian),Ekspresi keluarga yang ada disekitar,Baju Pengantin,Alat-Alat Make Up,Penata Rias,Pengantin Selesai di make up + POSE

3.Keluarga Orang Tua & Saudara-Saudara Dekat Ekspresi

Note: Ajak Pengantin bercanda,keceriaan pengantin adalah nilai point lebih

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AKAD NIKAH

1.Pengantin

Suasana Lokasi & dekorasi Ruangan,Mobil Pengantin Jika Ada,Pengantin Memasuki ruangan,Ekspresi Keluarga,Suasana Tamu,Ekspresi Pengantin Wanita saat bersyahadat,Ekspresi Pengantin Pria saat mengucap Ijab Kabul,Pengantin, Saksi dan Penghulu Tanda Tangani Buku nikah,Pengantin Sungkem/Sujud ke Orang Tua,Pengantin Pria Memberikan Maskawin,Pengantin Saling Memakaikan Cincin,Pengantin memperlihatkan Cincin Kawin,Photo Bersama Keluarga,Pengantin Memperlihatkan Buku nikah

2.keluarga

Pose Formil,ekspresi tangis/haru keluarga,

3.Pembawa Acara/pengisi Acara

Pidato,Membawakan doa,Penghulu dan saksi,Terutama ketika tanda tangan buku nikah.

4.Tamu/Keluarga

Untuk Foto bersama - Pose Formil,Tamu Keseluruhan/berkeliling,Suasana Makan,Kumpulan teman dan kerabat.

Note : Untuk agama lain, ikuti acara secara keseluruhan secara detail

Ambil Foto Sebanyak-banyaknya untuk pilihan terbaik di album,

Untuk Agama Kristen/di Gereja, Perbanyak Candid

Perhatikan Lighting, WB dan Pose Bersama ( JANGAN DISTORSI )

Jangan Gunakan Speed Rendah Usahakan foto FREEZE !,Foto bersama keluarga JANGAN ADA YANG MEREM!perhatikan baik2.Foto bersama keluarga ambil setidaknya 2 kali untuk backup!

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LIPUTAN RESEPSI

1.Pengantin

Mobil Pengantin Jika Ada

Pengantin Memasuki ruangan

Pengantin Pidato/Menyanyi/Dsb

Pengantin Melempar Bunga

Pengantin Bersalaman dengan tamu/ Suasana

Pengantin berjalan2

Pengantin makan/minum

Pengantin berpose Mesra Di Pelaminan

2.keluarga

Pose Formil

Candid Orang Tua pihak pria/wanita

3.Pembawa Acara/pengisi Acara

M.C

Penyanyi

pembuka jalan penganten (untuk adat)

Pengiring Penganten

Panitia-Panitia

Pidato, nyanyi dan sebagainya

4.Tamu/Keluarga

Untuk Foto bersama - Pose Formil

Tamu-Tamu Menyerbu makanan/antrian makanan

Tamu-Tamu mengobrol

Kumpulan Teman dan Kerabat

Note :

Ambil Foto Sebanyak-banyaknya untuk pilihan terbaik di album

Ikuti Acara Secara Keseluruhan

Perhatikan Lighting - WB -dan Pose Bersama ( JANGAN DISTORSI )

Jangan Gunakan Speed Rendah Usahakan foto FREEZE ! (terutama Lempar Bunga)

Foto bersama keluarga JANGAN ADA YANG MEREM!

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CANDID

1.Pengantin

Ekspresi Pengantin Pria

Ekspresi Pengantin Wanita

Ekspresi bersama/mesra dsb

Ekspresi keluarga

Close Up Keluarga Inti

Note :

Ambil Foto Sebanyak-banyaknya untuk pilihan terbaik di album

Kejar Pengantin Sebisa Mungkin

Perhatikan Lighting - WB

Kejar Ekspresi Bahagia/Sedih dsb

Buat Foto dengan ART yang tinggi.

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MINI STUDIO

1.Pasangan Pengantin

Pose Sendiri-sendiri

Pose Formil

Pose Mesra

Pose Gaya/Funky

2.keluarga

Pose Formil

Note :

Harap mengarahkan gaya pengantin agar tampak ok!

Ambil Take Yang Banyak untuk back Up/pilihan terbaik di album

Perhatikan tata lampu jangan ada bayangan di background

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VIDEO SHOOTING

Album foto merupakan storyboard dari Video dokumentasi

Kedetilan dan Kualitas Video terutama Kecerahan gambar sangat penting

Kamera Minimal MD-10000, MD-9000 pada cahaya under gambar pecah

JANGAN PERNAH BERANI2nya SHAKING APALAGI GEMPA BUMI!

JANGAN PERNAH PAKE AUTO WB. set WB manual. perubahan WB pada setting auto (�10 detik) sering mengganggu

Perhatikan posisi Lampu. Jangan Backlight.

Jangan bermain-main dengan pergerakan kamera.dokumentasi bukan video art! (kecuali pesanan khusus).

Untuk 2 Video Harap Saling memperhatikan Posisi rekannya agar editing lebih mudah!

Minta ucapan selamat dari tamu-tamu yang kelihatan akrab dengan pengantin/keluarga.

Minta Pesan dari Orang tua dua belah pihak

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NOTE : List ini adalah untuk acara wedding standard.

untuk lebih detail minta rundown acara.

jika ada bentuk acara khusus list foto akan bertambah.

Source : fotografer.net

Tips to Shoot Fireworks

1. You must arrive early

This is the first important thing to do if you want to get the best spot in the venue. It is even better if you spend some times to scout the location and have a little talk to the event crews to determine where the fireworks will be launched. Once you’ve got all the information needed, try to position yourself wisely. Find a clear, unbostructed view that meets your compositional requirements based on the terrain. Also try to find a place where people won’t be able to wondering around in front of the camera or worse kicking your tripod in the mid-exposure

2. Always use tripod (& camera remote control/cable release)

To be able to capture the light trail as shown as the fireworks picture above requires long exposure times ( 4-10 secs). You will definately need a tripod to do that kind of shot. There’s no way you can hold your camera for at least 5 secs without making any movement. The camera remote control is used to ensure that you won’t have to physically touch the shutter release thus eliminating the possibility of camera shake.

3. Your Focus Setting

If you have a point and shoot digital camera, try to set your camera to landscape mode which typically designated by an icon that looks like a small mountain range. This will set you lens to infinity that will free you from any focussing issues.

If you have a DSLR camera, then it’s better if you set your camera to M (manual) mode and also manually set your lens to infinity.. or in my case, with the fireworks exploding over the bridge, i tried to focus my lens on the bridge.

4. Your Exposure Setting

There’s no exact rules for your exposure settings, where shorter exposures don’t always capture the full burst and longer exposures tend to produce washed-out results. The beauty of Digital camera is that you can always check your picture before deciding the next exposure setting to get a better picture. My first fireworks picture above was shot at ISO 100 at f/16 and 8 secs.

If you have a B (Bulb) shutter speed setting you can use it to control exactly how long your shutter is open. The trick is to open the shutter right at the beginning of the burst and close it when it reaches its peak.

Using one of the suggested apertures listed below, you can use your preview to test and then compensate the aperture accordingly.

ISO 50
Aperture range: f/5.6 - 11

ISO 100
Aperture range: ƒ/8 to 16

ISO 200
Aperture range: ƒ/11 to 22

It’s highly recommended that you’re using ISO 100, which makes your correct aperture will be somewhere between ƒ/8 and ƒ/16. As I mentioned earlier, watch the first few explosions of the fireworks show in the camera’s preview. You don’t want the exposure to wash out the colors of the red, blue and green bursts. They should appear clearly, but they should show their actual color rather than wash out to a yellow/clear tone.

River Festival Fireworks, Brisbane - Australia (ISO 100 at f/16 and 8 secs)

5. Always use the lowest ISO setting & Highest Quality Setting

In the digital world; long exposures, higher ISO settings, and even higher temperatures can introduce noise into your digital photographs. You can’t avoid long exposures when shooting fireworks, but you can always choose a lower ISO setting.

By choosing a high Quality-setting you will reduce the amount of compression applied to your images. Less compression means fewer image artifacts and ultimately better image quality.

6. Bring extra batteries & memory cards

Have backup batteries in the event that your primary batteries give out during the show. Also don’t get so excited in the beginning that you fill your card before the grand finale. A good finale will produce peak light, color, and excitement. So make sure you have ample storage space available. Also make sure that your batteries have enough power to photograph the finale.

That’s it ! Good luck and enjoy the show…
source : dphotojournal.com

Top 5 Tips For Shooting Fireworks

by Ed Krimen
Whether you're a digital camera novice or a photography expert, be sure to share your fireworks photos on Photobird.com. Your photo albums on Photobird.com are easy to make, easy to share, and make your photos really stand out!

The Photobird Daily, The Journal for Photo Enthusiasts, is where we share photo tips, news, and other fun stuff that's on Photobird.com and all around the photo community. Be sure to check it out when you're finished reading this article.

Shooting fireworks is easy!

Fireworks are one of the easiest subjects to photograph, especially for novice photographers and digital camera neophytes. Shooting fireworks has a very high reward-work ratio; you basically set up your camera and continually snap the shutter. There are very few photographic subjects in which you can simply set up your camera, don't move it or change its settings, take a hundred shots in 30 to 45 minutes, and find a rather large percentage of your photos make you say "Wow! I shot that?!"

Shooting fireworks might even give you the encouragement to learn more about how to take better photos. At the very least, fireworks photography will teach you how to experiment with photography by shooting a lot of photos and picking out the best ones when you're done. You know what good fireworks shots look like because you've seen them before, so it'll be easy to pick out your favorites. On the other hand, as Garry Black, a renowned fireworks photographer, points out, some fireworks photos "just don't photograph well, either because of the pattern they create or because of their brightness -- they end up being over exposed." His best advice is "to go out to a location that has regular displays of fireworks and shoot lots of photos. That way, the next time you go back to that location you will have learned from your mistakes and successes."

The key to shooting fireworks is preparation. There are a few basics that you'll need to remember or write down for when you take your fireworks photos, and you'll need to purchase a tripod if you don't have one already. Tripods cost as low as $20. They're very economical, and definitely required when taking fireworks photos because they keep the camera steady, which is extremely important.

Fireworks photography is different than landscape, vacation, and ordinary point-and-shoot photography. With the latter, you simply need to make sure that you have enough storage space on your memory cards, that you and your camera batteries are charged, and that you have enough basic knowledge of how to press the shutter button to actually take the photo. Of course, some knowledge of lighting, composition, and exposure will improve your photos, but you don't need that advanced knowledge for fireworks photography and you will still get some remarkable photos to impress your friends and family, if you have the right equipment and understanding of the tips below.

Here are the top 5 tips you need to know to shoot fireworks:

1. Use a tripod. As I mentioned above, tripods are very inexpensive, but definitely required when shooting fireworks because the tripod keeps the camera steady. B&H sells tripods for as low as $20. If you have any questions about which tripod to get, I suggest calling B&H, especially if you want to make sure that they can send you a tripod in time for the 4th of July. Or, visit your local, reputable camera store and ask them which tripod is right for you and your camera.

If you can't get a tripod to this or any other fireworks event, you can certainly try to take photos, but don't expect the results to be that great. You'll see what I mean when you look at the photos. You may just want to watch and enjoy the fireworks. Garry Black advises that "hand-holding [the camera], bracing the camera against something solid, or using a monopod just doesn't work! I've tried it a couple of times. But if you are really compelled to try, I would suggest that you shouldn't try to keep the camera still. Instead, since you are going to have camera movement anyway, then you should make the camera really move. Try zooming during the exposure (if your camera allows it), moving the camera in a circular motion, or moving the camera up and down, or even panning the falling light trails." With those movements, you are bound to get some innovative and artistic shots.

You should also make sure that your camera has a tripod mount on the bottom. Most digital cameras do, but there are some very small cameras that don't have the tripod mount. The tripod mount is a small, circular, threaded hole on the bottom of the camera. Photo 20 on the left is the bottom of the tiny Olympus Stylus 500 digital camera, and you can clearly see its circular tripod mount on the right side of the photo. Tripod mounts are standard, so any tripod you get will work.


2. Use the remote control or timer. It's practically essential to have a remote control or timer feature on your camera to minimize the amount of shaking when the shutter button is pressed. Even though the shaking may be slight and your camera will be on a tripod, there is still too much shaking going on when you use your finger to press the shutter button on the camera.

Some cameras ship with very small remote control devices, similar to the one for your TV, that allow you to zoom, focus, and press the shutter button without actually touching the camera. If you have one of these remotes, make sure its battery is still working, and use it!

If you don't have a remote for your camera, check to see if your camera has a timer. Most cameras do. The timer is most often used for portrait and group photos in which the photographer wants to be in the shot; she presses the shutter button and runs to the group to be in the shot with them, while the camera counts down a number of seconds and then takes the photo. You can use the same feature to shoot fireworks: After you press the shutter button, remove your hands from the camera so the camera stops shaking; then, the camera waits a number of seconds, and snaps the photo -- clearly, without the shake.

It's a good idea to take a few practice shots with this method before you get to the location and after you've setup, but before the fireworks actually start. You want to make sure you understand how the remote control or self-timer features work. You also want to take this opportunity to review some test photos on the camera's LCD screen to make sure everything looks right before the fireworks begin. Of course, one of the joys of using a digital camera instead of film camera is that you can review and then delete these test photos to make room for the real ones!


3. Long exposure time and shutter speed
. Fireworks photos look as good as they do because the camera is actually taking the photo for a number of seconds -- not a fraction of a second as it normally does. (I'll save you the technical details for another time, but if you're interested in the fundamentals, read up on camera or film "exposure".)

Digital cameras vary in the longest exposure they allow. (A long exposure is synonymous with a low shutter speed.) Some cameras may only allow a few seconds, while others may allow for 15 seconds or more. For now, I'd set your camera to 3 or 4 seconds. When you're up to it, this is where you can get creative and try shorter and longer exposures. The length of time depends on the type of fireworks displayed and how you want the final photo to appear. Experiment. You can even experiment after the first few fireworks explode to see what a different exposure time looks like. And be sure not to bump or move the camera during the exposure time, or else you'll see the movement in the photo.

If your camera doesn't allow you to change the exposure time or shutter speed, look for one of the following modes and use one of them if it is available: fireworks mode, nighttime mode, or landscape mode. Fireworks or nighttime modes are preferred over landscape mode when shooting fireworks.


4. Turn off the camera's flash. Be sure you turn off the flash on your camera. Digital cameras usually start with the flash on automatic; since it'll be dark, the camera will think it needs the flash, but it really won't need flash because the fireworks will be bright enough.


5. Location, location, location. Location and timing are extremely important in all forms of photography, as Michael Reichmann attests. It's worth some of your time for analysis and discussion to try to predict the best place to photograph fireworks in your area. Of course, you want your camera to have a clear, unobstructed view of the area in the sky where the fireworks will be shown.

Silhouettes of people, trees, and buildings can sometimes make for interesting fireworks photos, but I would try to avoid them at first. Some silhouettes may be unavoidable, but strive to find an open area if possible, especially when shooting fireworks for the first time.

Arrive early and setup before the show starts to find a place where people will not walk in front of you. And try to avoid other sources of lights, such as illuminated signs on buildings and street lights.



With those 5 tips in mind and a little preparation, you'll have some great fireworks photos. As a bonus, I've included more helpful tips below that you should keep in mind when shooting fireworks.


6. Know your camera
. Practice a little and be familiar with your camera before you head out to see the fireworks. Spend an hour or so with the camera, the camera manual, and this article to ensure your camera is setup and ready to go. You don't want to be out there with your camera on the tripod ready to go, with your camera manual in hand trying to figure things out. In any case though, bring a small flashlight to adjust camera settings in the dark, if necessary.


7. Verify your memory cards are empty. This is an important step before heading out anywhere with your digital camera. You want to make sure that you've transferred all of your photos to your computer for safe-keeping before heading out to shoot more photos. This step is just like checking to make sure you had enough film when using film cameras. If you, like most of us, find that transferring photos to your computer is a pain, consider using a memory card reader, such as one of the SanDisk ImageMate models.


8. Charge your batteries. And bring spare, fully-charged batteries if you have them. You'll probably be using the LCD display a lot, and that uses up the most juice.


9. Zoom out. You can try zooming in to adjust the shot for the fireworks, but zooming out is usually best because you'll want to capture as much of the sky and fireworks as possible. When cameras start up, they are usually zoomed out all of the way, but it can sometimes be too easy to accidentally zoom in.


10. Use the highest photo quality setting
. In fact, I recommend that you use the highest quality, size, and resolution for all of the photos that you take. The only reason to limit the size and resolution of the photos that you take is to reduce the amount of space they take up on your memory card, if you're running out of space. The recommended alternative is to simply buy more storage space with memory cards, whose prices continue to drop.


11. Use a low ISO setting, such as 50 or 100. Some cameras don't allow you to change the ISO setting, and most people don't know what it is and usually don't change it anyway. The higher the ISO setting, the more sensitive to light the camera will be, and the more "noise" will be introduced into the photo, in the form of tiny white or colored dots. You really want the background of the photo, the night sky, as black as possible, to ensure the fireworks stand out against the background. This effect is achieved with a low ISO setting. ISO 200 or 400 will introduce too much noise with the long exposure times needed to shoot fireworks.


12. Hope for or seek out excellent weather conditions
. Especially in San Francisco which has notoriously cold and foggy summers, you may need to find areas that have good weather on the 4th of July. Nevertheless, as you can see in photos 13 through 19 on the left, the fog does make for some unusual fireworks shots, especially when the fireworks explode in the fog.


After you're done photographing fireworks, be sure to share your digital photos with your own online photo album on Photobird.com. Your photo albums on Photobird.com are easy to make, easy to use, attractive, and fun!

Finally, and most importantly, be sure to enjoy the fireworks display while you're there. Don't just spend your time working on shots, behind the camera. Relax a bit and enjoy the fireworks. This is true of all photographic subjects. Stop to smell the roses, and then take the picture. Or vice versa.

Source: photobird.com

12 essential facts, formulas, and photographic rules

What happens when your systems go belly-up, when all of that cutting-edge technology dies and you must rely on (gasp!) your own knowledge? It pays to have these basics in your head. They can get you out of a jam and help you get good shots when nothing else will. 

1 . Sunny 16 rule The basic exposure for an average scene taken on a bright, sunny day is f/16 at a shutter speed equivalent to one over the ISO setting—that is, f/16 at 1/100 sec at ISO 100. From this you can interpolate, and try f/22 at the beach, f/11 on a cloudy-bright day, etc.

2. Moony 11, 8, and 5.6 rules There are many different rules that work well when shooting the moon. One favorite for a proper exposure of a full moon is f/11 at one over the ISO setting. For pictures of a half moon, use the same shutter speed at f/8, and for a quarter moon, use the same shutter speed at f/5.6.

3. Camera shake rule The slowest shutter speed at which you can safely handhold a camera is one over the focal length of the lens in use. As shutter speeds get slower, camera shake is likely to result in an increasing loss of sharpness. So, if you're using a 50mm lens, shoot at 1/60 sec or faster. Not enough light? Use a flash, tripod, or brace your camera against a solid object.

4. Anatomical gray card Metering off an 18-percent neutral gray card is a good way to get a midtone reading that will give you a good overall exposure of a scene. Forgot your gray card? Hold your open hand up so it's facing the light, take a reading off your palm, open up one stop, and shoot. (Various skin tones rarely account for even a full-stop difference.)

5. Depth of field rules When focusing on a deep subject, focus on a point about a third of the way into the picture to maximize depth of field, because the depth-of-field zone behind that point is about twice as deep as the depth-of-field zone in front of it. This works for all apertures and focal lengths, but the smaller the aperture and the shorter the focal length, and the greater the distance you shoot at, the greater the depth of field.

6. Largest digital print rule To calculate in inches the largest photo-quality print you can make with a digital camera, divide the vertical and horizontal pixel counts (see your manual) by 200. For critical applications, or if you want exhibition-quality prints, divide the pixel counts by 250.



7. Exposure rules The classic advice is, "Expose for the highlights, and let the shadows take care of themselves." This works with slide film and digital. But with negative film, especially color negative, you're better off overexposing by one stop.

8. Quick flash-fill rule When using an automatic flash unit that doesn't provide auto flash-fill ratios, set the flash's ISO dial to twice the ISO you're using. Meter the scene, select an f-stop, set the autoflash aperture to the same f-stop, and shoot. The resulting 2:1 flash-fill ratio will produce filled shadows one stop darker than the main subject.

9. Flash range rule Want to know how much extra flash range you get by going to a faster ISO? The rule is, "Double the distance, four times the speed." For example: If your flash is good to 20 feet at ISO 100 (film or digital), it will be good to 40 feet at ISO 400.

10. Megapixel multiplier rule To double the resolution in a digital camera, you must increase the number of megapixels by a factor of four—not two. Why? The number of pixels in both the vertical and horizontal dimensions must be doubled to double the pixel density across the image sensor.

11. Action-stopping rules To stop action moving across the frame that's perpendicular to the lens axis, you need shutter speeds two stops faster than action moving toward or away from you. For action moving at a 45-degree angle to the lens axis, you can use a shutter speed one stop slower. For example: If a person running toward you at moderate speed can be stopped at 1/125 sec, you'll need a shutter speed of 1/500 sec to stop the subject moving across the frame, and a shutter speed of 1/250 sec to stop him if moving obliquely with respect to the camera.

12. Sunset rule To get a properly exposed sunset, meter the area directly above the sun (without including the sun). If you want the scene to look like it's a half-hour later, stop down by one f-stop, or set exposure compensation to minus one

Panduan Praktis untuk mencetak Hasil Foto Kamera Digital

Oleh: Rifka Harmi Putra

Hasil foto dengan menggunakan Kamera Digital bisa kita lihat langsung melalui Komputer tanpa harus membawa ke lab foto untuk dicetak. Namun tidak bisa dihindari bahwa kita terkadang masih memerlukan hasil foto yang dicetak sehingga bisa dilihat kapan saja dan dimana saja tanpa tergantung dengan komputer. Pada artikel ini akan dijelaskan panduan praktis untuk mencetak hasil foto Kamera Digital. 

Sebelumnya saya ingin memperjelas sedikit tentang kerancuan-kerancuan yang ada dalam istilah yang sering dipakai, yaitu :  

* Besar Resolusi yaitu 1280x960 (1MegaPixel), 1600x1200 (2 MP ), 3MP maupun 4MP dan lain lain itu adalah menandakan banyaknya titik yang ada dalam gambar tersebut. Semisal foto dengan resolusi 1600x1200 berarti ada 1600 titik di horizontal dan 1200 titik di vertikal. 

* Densitas foto 72dpi, 180dpi, maupun 300dpi (terlihat pada EXIF data yang menempel pada foto yang bersangkutan) itu menandakan tingkat kerapatan dari titik - titik tersebut dalam suatu satuan ukuran inch (dot per inch). Misalnya kita selama ini mendengar ada printer berkemampuan cetak dengan densitas 300dpi, 600dpi, 1200dpi, maupun 4800dpi. Contoh printer dengan kemampuan densitas 4800dpi itu berarti bisa mencetak sebanyak 4800 titik sepanjang garis 1 inch (2,54cm), begitu juga dengan printer berkemampuan densitas 300dpi berarti hanya bisa mencetak 300 titik sepanjang garis 1 inch (2,54cm).  

Terkait dengan hal - hal diatas, maka kita patut mengetahui juga bahwa mesin cetak foto itu biasanya berkemampuan densitas 300dpi sehingga kita akhirnya sering memakai patokan ini sebagai standard densitas minimum yang diperlukan baik untuk mencetak di laboratorium foto ataupun dengan printer sendiri.  

Berikut daftar ukuran kertas foto yang biasanya dipakai di laboratorium foto :  
2R = 6 x 9 cm 
3R = 8,9 x 12,7 cm 
4R = 10,2 x 15,2 cm 
5R = 12,7 x 17,8 cm 
6R = 15,2 x 20,3 cm 
8R = 20,3 x 25,4 cm 
8R Plus = 20,3 x 30,5 cm 
10R = 25,4 x 30,5 cm 
10R Plus = 25,4 x 38,1 cm 

Kita akan mengambil contoh salah satu ukuran yang biasa dipakai yaitu 4R dalam hal ini, yaitu : 10,2x15,2cm 
(10,2cm : 2,54) x 300dpi = 1204 titik atau pixel 
(15,2cm : 2,54) x 300dpi = 1795 titik atau pixel. 
  
Dengan ini berarti kita mengetahui bahwa resolusi minimum yang dibutuhkan untuk mencetak 4R adalah 1795 x 1204 pixel.  Dalam hal ini berarti boleh dikatakan bahwa resolusi kamera digital yang mendekati ukuran tersebut mungkin adalah 2MP yaitu 1600x1200. Tetapi harus diingat bahwa adanya perbedaan rasio panjang lebar antara file kamera digital (4:3) dengan standar kertas foto (3:2) itu biasanya berakibat terjadinya cropping (pemotongan) pada samping2 foto karena laboratorium foto itu biasanya melakukan sedikit peregangan secara otomatis pada file – file yang bersangkutan, misalnya foto dengan resolusi 1600x1200 akan diperbesar menjadi 1795x1346 untuk memenuhi ukuran frame minimal dari 4R untuk kemudian dicropping lagi sehingga bagian yang tercetak itu tetap beresolusi 1795x1204.  

Ada beberapa kasus dimana ada yang berhasil melakukan pencetakan dengan ukuran 8R hanya dengan kamera 2MP ataupun juga mungkin bisa 10R. Dalam hal ini kita harus melihat lagi beberapa hal yaitu :  

1. Kompleksitas dari gambar yang diambil, misalnya gambar - gambar dokumentasi orang tentunya jauh berbeda tingkat detailnya dibandingkan dengan gambar pemandangan alam misalnya pada waktu sunrise). Dalam hal ini gambar orang biasanya lebih mudah untuk diperbesar dibandingkan dengan gambar pemandangan alam) 
2. Tingkat kompresi dari gambar yang dipakai (dengan ACDSee biasanya terlihat dengan click kanan properties, bagian file, di compression ratio). Biasanya file - file yang berpotensi dan bisa dicetak jauh lebih besar dari ukuran yang direkomendasikan itu file - file dengan tingkat kompresi antara 5 - 10. Lebih dari itu, biasanya sulit sekali untuk meningkatkan ukuran gambar.
3. Ada beberapa kamera yang menyediakan mode RAW dan juga mode TIFF pada hasil akhir gambar yang ditangkap, dalam hal RAW file dan TIFF file itu tidak terdapat kompresi sama sekali sehingga sangat dimungkinkan untuk melakukan resize ulang untuk melakukan cetak pada ukuran lebih besar. 
   

Dari 3 hal diatas, seringkali saya sendiri juga bisa melakukan cetak pada 10R maupun 12R dengan kamera 4MP yang saya miliki meskipun secara perhitungan tidak memungkinkan untuk melakukan pencetakan tersebut. Dalam hal ini kita bisa melakukan test sederhana apakah file yang bersangkutan masih bisa untuk dicetak pada ukuran yang bersangkutan atau tidak dengan cara melakukan image resize pada photoshop 

Semoga artikel berikut ini berguna sebagai panduan anda dalam melakukan pencetakan foto anda dari kamera digital. Di bawah ini saya buatkan daftar acuan praktis untuk pencetakan foto yang diinginkan beserta resolusi yang dibutuhkan. 
3R = 8,9 x 12,7cm @300 dpi = 1051x1500 pixel 
4R = 10,2 x 15,2cm @300 dpi = 1205x1795 pixel 
5R = 12,7 x 17,8cm @300 dpi = 1500x2102 pixel 
6R = 15,2 x 21,6cm @300 dpi = 1795x2551 pixel 
8R = 20,3 x 25,4cm @300 dpi = 2398x3000 pixel 
8R Plus = 20,3 x 30,5cm @300 dpi = 2398x3602 pixel 
10R = 25,4 x 30,5cm @300 dpi = 3000x3602 pixel 
10R Plus = 25,4 x 38,1cm @300 dpi = 3000 x 4500 pixel